Archive for September, 2008

September 20

This is a new kind of quiet.  Seven inches of snow have fallen today, the most in over a decade for this part of the world.  Tonight as I sit in my house, the only thing I can hear is the scratch of the pen and the hiss of the stove, boiling water for tea.

I’ve experienced the silence of a heavy snow before, but never the kind of preternatural stillness of this night.  There are no dogs outside, nobody playing music, no traffic, no movement.

When I was in Chicago last spring, I went to a service at the local Unitarian Church.  The pastor spoke of an old Gaelic idea of the “thin places,” where the boundary between the human and the spiritual was very apparent, and very thin.  The quiet tonight is almost physical in its presence, and I can’t help but think back to that sermon.

This place, this experience, has already had a profound effect on me.  When I think back and realize that I have been here only three months, I am left a little awed at how so much can change so quickly.  With two years in front of me, it is hard to even begin to grasp how my sense of myself will change.

So much of the Peace Corps experience is that of deprivation-of family, of friends, of communication.  This night seems to be the extreme, deprivation of everything but the self.  In the end, I think that is what you learn; left with only the self, you can have no illusions of who you are all.  We all hope that the self we are left with is someone we can live with.

Over the past month and a half, I have had a rough time.  I have been very frustrated, both with my work situation and the (seeming) lack of personal development.  Some of you have heard about this, but I’ve refrained from posting it publicly to avoid giving people the wrong impression of my life here.  Tonight I can see that while it has been very, very hard here, I have made progress.

After almost two months at site, I still believe deeply in what it is the Peace Corps does, and what the project here is Bobete is doing.  The petty day to day things are still deeply frustrating, but not as overwhelming as they seem at the time.

At home, I kept on my desk a copy of Reinhold Neibuhr’s prayer:
Grant me the courage to change what I can,
the serenity to accept what I cannot,
and the wisdom to know the difference.
I think that this is at the heart the Peace Corps experience.  We all come in with the courage to change things, or we would not have made it through the application process.  After getting here though, we realize that there is so much that we cannot change.  Unless we can accept that and move on, we will spend two years tilting at windmills, and leave feeling we have accomplished nothing.

Wisdom can only come through experience and perspective, and it is my hope and my prayer that I keep the perspective I see tonight as I look back on my first months in Bobete.

I’m dreaming of a white… umm… summer?

Snow!

Almost unbelievably, we’re in the midst of the heaviest snow in Lesotho in a decade.  Winter (which is on its way out) is generally the dry season, with the rains coming as it warms up.

There has been some concern of a drought this year.  Just yesterday I heard that the king of Lesotho asked churches in the country to pray for rain on Sunday (tomorrow).  I’m not sure if this is divine intervention getting its wires crossed, but I woke up this morning to see snow on the ground.  It has not let up all day, and is now up to probably four or five inches with no sign of stopping.

Needless to say, I feel like a little kid at Christmas.  Snowmen have been made, hot coffee (no chocolate in Bobete) drank, and general merriment everywhere.

In other news, politics seem to have gone nuts everywhere.  Thabo Mbeki is resigning as president of South Africa, and the US government is about to embark on the biggest bailout since the great depression.  To borrow a phrase from talking with my dad today, combined with the snow this all feels a little  apocolyptic.

But what the hell, we get to play in the snow.  It’s a good day.

Pictures:

1. My front yard.

2. My house.

3. Zimbawee PIH staff enjoying the snow.

4. PIH Clinic.

5. View from my window.

The Straw House Argument

September 17:

Well, I’d say this counts as the (hopefully) culmination of a difficult week.  Windy season has hit Bobete with a vengeance, and taken with it several pieces of my roof.

I woke up this morning to a shower of dust from my roof—this is fairly normal, but there was more than usual.  I went about my day, going to Thaba-Tseka to run errands with Ntate Sempe.  Many comments about the wind were made, including a few jokes about hoping our houses were still standing when we returned.

We got home around 5:30, and as I walked to my house I passed the owner going the other way.  I didn’t think much of it until I opened my door to find a centimeter layer of dust, dirt, and thatch from my roof, and sunlight coming in from parts of the ceiling.

I found Sempe, and we returned to the house about the same time as the owner.  A quick conference determined that the damage wasn’t too bad, so long as it doesn’t rain and the wind dies down in the next few days.  There’s already an elaborate repair plan—until then it might be a little drafty.

[update: today the wind is a lot calmer, so hopefully this is a sign of things to come]

That there new tab

So you all might notice a new tab up there, labeled “wish list.”

*ahem*

Yep, pretty much what it looks like.  Shipping packages seems to take about two months, and with my birthday and Christmas on the horizon, I thought I would engage in a little American consumer greed.

And now with guest stars

Another video update.  Becky has been visiting the last week, attending the SILC training in Bobete.


Disclaimer

The contents of this web site are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. government, Peace Corps or the country of Lesotho.

Contact Information

Oscar Sinclair, PCV c/o Peace Corps/Lesotho PO Box 554 Maseru, 100 LESOTHO oscarsinclair@gmail.com